Kenya 2023

When: January and February 2023
Duration: 14 days
Distance covered: 2200 km

This was our third visit to Kenya. This time, our main goal was to visit the northern Kenya region around the southeast shore of Lake Turkana. As we will be traveling by the Samburu NP and Ol Pejeta in Laikipia, which we have both visited before (and like them very much), we intended to spend some time there too. On the way back, we would also visit the Marsabit NP and Aberdares NP, which would be new to us.

So, our rough plan was: Nairobi – Samburu – Laisamis – South Horr – Lake Turkana (Loiyangalani) – North Horr – Kalacha – Chalbi Desert – Marsabit – Ol Pejeta – Aberdares – Lake Naivasha – Nairobi.

We knew about the severe drought, which lasts in these northern regions for years now, and the security issues related to this. There are quite frequent clashes and raids among the pastoralis in those regions, many with fatal outcomes. These tensions are generally not aimed against tourists, but the authorities usually don’t want to risk anything, and after such escalations, they either close the region for tourists or require them to travel through insecure territory in police-escorted convoys.

Even without the security issues, these parts around Lake Turkana are very remote and not frequently visited, so you really have to have a very reliable 4×4, and preferably travel in a convoy of 2 or more vehicles. Most rental companies even don’t allow their vehicles that far north.

Knowing all this, we were aware that our originally planned itinerary is only tentative, and if Turkana will be inaccessible, we would need to improvise and spend our time in other regions. So, by no means our plans were cast in stone.

Lake Turkana, or Jade See, as it is often referred to, due to its turquoise color, has been on our bucket list for a long time. We usually rent from Roadtrip Africa in Kenya, and they have recently removed the restriction for their cars not to travel beyond Samburu National Park in the north. Noticing this new policy, we immediately took the opportunity to fulfill this wish. We booked a Toyota Hilux with a canopy and RTT, kitted with a fridge and camping equipment. On the previous two trips to Kenya, we always rented Landcruisers. But since Roadtrip Africa introduced Hiluxes into their Kenyan fleet relatively recently, I thought that they might be newer and in better shape than their Landcruisers. I was wrong. A single look under the bonnet made it very clear, that the car might have a few surprises for us on this trip. I have never seen such a dirty engine in my life (“we didn’t want to wash the engine, as something might stop working then” – not a very reassuring statement if you are heading into the desert). The tires were in very good condition, though, as were the tent and camping equipment – even better than anticipated. Except for the fridge, which didn’t work at all from day one.

When we started our drive toward the north, the car soon showed its weak points. The engine produced very low power, and we were struggling with every steeper ascent, even on tar. Also, the clutch felt like it is very near to the end of its lifetime. And there was a constant squeaking and squealing from the right rear wheel. With all this, I was beginning to doubt if it is wise to try to go to Turkana. However, after a couple of days on the rough roads in Samburu NP, the car convinced me that it is not that bad, and we decided to try it anyway. Until the disaster strikes one afternoon. We stopped by a lodge to have a cold one, and when we wanted to leave, the car wouldn’t start. It was a dead battery, although it showed absolutely no weaknesses until then. The car could only be started by pushing it. Luckily, this happened to us in front of a lodge, where we had no problems getting a push from a few strong employees, and not somewhere in the middle of the desert, with no living soul miles around.

This made a cross over our Turkana plans. The next day we headed back to Isiolo, the first nearest town, to get a new battery. They didn’t have a suitable one there, so we continued to Nanyuki, a region capital, being very careful to never let the engine shut down. After getting the new battery installed, we settled in the nearby Ol Pejeta conservancy for two nights.

From there, we skipped the visit to Aberdares (due to the lack of power in our car for the steep and rough climbs in this park), and continued to Lake Baringo for another two nights.

Next, we were headed to Masai Mara for a few days, with an interim stop at Kericho for one night. Soon after a short visit to Lake Bogoria, I made a very stupid mistake/misjudgment and damaged one of the tires. After putting on the spare one, we tried to patch the damaged one at a nearby garage. They put two patches from the inside and made a very good job, however, one of the holes was at the edge between the side wall and the tread, so it was very questionable if the patch will hold. And indeed it didn’t. When we arrived at Kericho, it was obvious that it is leaking. So, the next morning we drove to the nearby tire center, where they made a professional assessment of the damage. As expected, they advise us to buy a new one. When I consulted the rental company, they were not very keen on me buying a new tire, as it would be of a different brand than the remaining three. Instead, they suggested that we drive to lake Naivasha, where they will deliver a new one of the same brand.

They indeed arrived at our camp at Lake Naivasha that evening, but not with a new tire, but with a different Hilux (the same model). So we swapped the car there for the remainder of our trip in Masai Mara. That second Hilux had almost the double mileage on its odometer compared to the first one, but despite that, it was in far better shape. Powerful, reliable, and much better in any aspect. With that one, I would certainly not hesitate to head toward Lake Turkana. As we were later informed, Roadtrip Africa is in the process of getting rid of their two Hiluxes, as they are not sturdy enough for the rough Kenyan roads, and will only have Landcruisers in their fleet again. So, we were actually the last clients driving their Hiluxes.

Next, we spend three exciting, but at the same time very relaxing days in Masai Mara, camping at Oloololo campsite in Mara Triangle. One morning we treated ourselves to a balloon ride over Mara. It is expensive, but an unforgettable experience.

The last night we spent at Jungle Junction in Nairobi, and the morning of the last day before our flight back, we spent in Nairobi NP again. We visited this park on our last Kenyan trip, and this park, teeming with animals, has made a very positive impression on us again.

Despite the problems, this was another very enjoyable trip in this beautiful country. The only new attractions for us were the Great Rift lakes (Baringo, Bogoria, Naivasha). For all other parks, it was our second or third visit. But I’m sure that in none of them, it was our last. We will certainly be back to Kenya. After all, Lake Turkana remains high on our bucket list. Maybe even next year.

This was the actual itinerary on this trip:

Day 1-3:

After getting our car in Nairobi, head north all the way to Sambur National Park. Spend the first night at Umoja Sambaru Womens Camp, just outside the park gates. Next two nights camp at the Public Campsite on the banks of Ewaso Ng’iro river.

Day 4-5:

Move to Ol Pejeta conservancy on the Laikipia Plateau. Camp at Ewaso Campsite.

Day 6-7:

Visit lake Baringo in the Great Rift Valley, and spend two nights at Bush Baby campsite.

Day 8:

Drive to the town of Kericho, spend a night camping at Rays Place

Day 9:

Move to Lake Naivasha, another one of the Great Rift lakes, and spend a night at Carnelly’s Camp.

Day 10-12:

Spend 3 days in a wonderful Masai Mara National Reserve. Camp all three nights at Oloololo Campsite in Mara Triangle.

Day 13-14:

Drive to Nairobi and spend the night camping at Jungle Junction.Spend the next morning in Nairobi National Park, before heading to the Nairobi International Airport for flight back home.

Check the detailed description of each part of the trip by clicking on the following links.

Trip installments:
Part 1: Samburu National Reserve
Part 2: Ol Pejeta Conservancy
Part 3: Lake Baringo
Part 4: Kericho and Lake Naivasha
Part 5: Masai Mara
Part 6: Nairobi National Park